At the bottom of the stairway in front of the front door, is a ceiling light. Also there's a stairway from first to second. Everything on the second floor is controlled with a single breaker. There's a basement, a first floor and a second floor. I have a house in Pittsburgh built in 1965. I will knock off each breaker and make a list of each outlet and light that goes out!! EXCELLENT idea !! Thank You for staying w/ me !! Very, very much appreciate you sharing your knowledge. and it comes on fine!!! I go back and get the volt meter and put the prongs in pos and neut and 120 shows up clean as she can be !!ĭo I replace GFCI breaker and all 3 outlets?Īnd again Gentleman. I am beginning to believe that the GFCI breaker might be failing? I put all my equipment away and go back to the bathroom and plug in the dryer to the bottom of the outlet. and neut and got readings but only short burst to 120 most 99 to 103, including bottom of outlet that the hair dryer would not work in. I decided to recheck each outlet, bathroom, front and back, all that are connected to the GFCI in the panel box. This outlet is also on the same GFCI breaker (all are regular outlets by the way. I tried switching several times back and forth just to check my sanity ! Nothing on the bottom at all. After the shower I tried to use the hair dryer and found it only worked in the top half of the outlet. Ready to eat crow on this site because I did not think that it was connected to the GFCI I breathed a sigh of relief that the problem was not a problem anymore, I decided to shower and relax. It now shows both lights lit which indicates "wired correctly" I flipped it off then back to full on and plug tester lit up. I went and checked it and saw it was half way. This time I showed nothing lighting at all !! I asked my wife if she had flipped the GFCI and she said she hadn't. you mentioned I should use the plug tester. This is what the other posters are referring to.Gentleman Thank You both for hanging in here w/me. Sometimes the back stab is not tight, so the downstream outlet has problems. It's done using the "back stab " connection where the bare wire is pushed (stabbed) into the back of the receptacle. The first outlet daisy chains all it's wiring to the second outlet (The keurig with the problem). Look at the other outlet (first) on the same circuit:īreaker -> first outlet -> second outlet (keurig) It has black(hot), white(neutral) and a ground wire.the two breakers are like two individual breakers (no handles together), both are 20 A In the outlet box, you would have a red wire (120 hot for one circuit), black (120 hot for the other circuit), white (neutral) and groundįrom your description, it sounds like it's not a split receptacle (has only a black = hot, white = neutral and ground) ? The two breakers don't have pin connecting the handles together? This allows people to run two big loads from the same outlet. The bottom part of the outlet is one 120V circuit and the top part of the outlet would be on the other 120V circuit. Kitchen receptacles are normally "split" so they are fed with from two 120 VAC breakers tied together (a tandem breaker or 240VAC). Thank you.The house is less than 3 yrs old and we are the first owner.We now know that the problematic outlet long with another outlet is on one breaker.So I would guess that would be the line we (the electrician) need to focus on when troubleshooting, correct? Inside the problematic outlet box, there is one ground, one hot, one netural, I guess that would indicate it is the end outlet on the line? We noticed that after the Keurig is plugged in for a while (a while could be a day or 2 hours, it is really random pattern) the power to the outlet will be lost.When we noticed this, we unplug the Keurig and plug in a kettle, same thing.No power to the outlet.sometimes, after 1hour or so, the outlet seems to get the power back and when we plug the Keurig back in, it will power on and then after certain time, the same thing happen again.įirst, we thought it is a bad outlet, so we replaced it today.and everything seems fine at first.but after about 1 hour or so, there is no power to the Keurig again.We tested with outlet tester this time when the power goes off to the outlet, it shows 'Open neutral'.after 30 mins, we tested it again.now this time, it shows 'correct wiring'.We would be calling an electrictian to take a look at this Friday, but given this is intermittent, I am not sure if the electrctian would be able to find anything. It doesn't look like I am able to figure this one out.So, we have three duplex receptacles on the kithchen counter.One of them have the Keurig coffee machine plugged into it.Everything works fine for the last 2 and a half years until recently (about 2 wks ago).
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